Continual lighting provides many options in the studio.
Continual studio lighting is a photographic lighting method in which the lights are constantly on, as opposed to strobe or flashbulb lighting in which the lights turn on exclusive briefly while the exposure is lifetime mythical. Continual lighting has indefinite advantages since it is normally less expensive to buy the Accoutrement, and you can always study what the lucent is doing. The drawbacks to continual lighting are that it produces a tremendous extent of heat, and the brilliance is typically not balanced to daylight, connotation filters are required in definite situations.
Instructions
1. Hire the type of lights for your studio setup. Non-stop lights are untrue with either tungsten, flourescent or HMI (Hydrargyrum Medium-Arc Iodide) bulbs.
Tungsten bulbs are the cheapest, on the contrary besides the hottest. They extremely build a color temperature that is yet warmer (less fed up) than daylight, so provided they are to be used with any other burnished sources, you Testament obligation filters to adjust the colour temperature.
Flourescent bulbs are a accepted Election as they build less heat and are closer in colour temperature to daylight. They are, on the other hand, probably the least dynamic glossy source.
HMI lights are very common in the motion picture industry, as they produce less heat and emit a consistent color temperature close to daylight. They are quite large and expensive.
2. Decide the number of lights you will be using. You can get by with only one light, but generally, the minimum is two. Beyond that, your lighting options only increase.
3. Set up any additional accent lighting. A backlight is a common addition to a continuous studio setup and is placed high above the subject and behind them (but out of frame). The intensity of the light should be low and focused mainly on the subject's hair to supply highlights and make the hair "pop out" from the background. Additional accent lighting can be used to create various effects as desired.
Set up the fill light at an angle of about 45 degrees from your camera on the side opposite the key light. The purpose of the fill light is to play down some of the shadows, so the light should be diffused or reflected to soften its appearance on the subject. Usually the fill light is less powerful, or placed farther away from the subject.
5. Place the key, or primary light, at an angle of about 45 degrees from your camera. In a typical portrait setup, the light should be at least 4 to 5 feet away from the subject at a height of about 30 to 45 degrees above the subject's eye level. Direct light can be harsh, so it is often helpful to use an umbrella of other reflector to diffuse the light and soften the shadows.4.
